Tile is one of the most rewarding floors you can lay yourself: it's waterproof, nearly indestructible, and looks high-end in any kitchen or bathroom. It's also one of the least forgiving materials to work with - mortar waits for no one. This guide walks through the process the way our installers do it, so you can decide whether to tackle it yourself or let our crew handle it.
Everything You'll Need
| Tool / Material | Purpose |
|---|---|
| Tape measure & chalk line | Measure the room and mark center guide lines |
| Notched trowel | Spread mortar evenly |
| Wet saw or tile cutter | Cut tiles for edges and corners |
| Spacers | Keep grout joints consistent |
| Level | Make sure tiles sit even |
| Grout float | Press grout into joints |
| Bucket & sponge | Clean tiles and remove grout film |
| Knee pads, glasses & gloves | Protect yourself |
| Cement backer board | Water-resistant base over wood subfloors |
Step 1: Prepare the Space
Remove baseboards and old flooring to expose the subfloor - a pry bar takes off trim without hurting walls. Sweep and vacuum thoroughly, then inspect for cracks, holes, or uneven spots. Fill cracks with patching compound and flatten dips with floor leveling compound. Over wood subfloors, screw down cement backer board for a stable, water-resistant base; concrete slabs usually only need a crack-isolation membrane. Check concrete for moisture with a moisture meter before you start - trapped moisture causes cracked tile and failed grout later.
Step 2: Plan Your Tile Layout
Snap chalk lines between the midpoints of opposite walls to find the room's center - that intersection is your starting point. Dry-fit a row of tiles along each line without mortar to check your cuts at the walls; you want no sliver-cut tiles anywhere visible. For beginners, stick to a straight lay or a 45-degree diagonal. Herringbone and chevron look fantastic but demand precise cuts - that's the kind of job our installers do every day.
Step 3: Mix and Spread the Mortar
Mix thin-set to a peanut-butter consistency and let it slake per the bag directions. Work in small sections - mortar skins over in 15-20 minutes. Hold the notched trowel at 45 degrees and comb straight, parallel ridges; the ridges collapse evenly when the tile is pressed in. Back-butter tiles larger than 8 inches for a full, void-free bond.
Step 4: Lay the Tile
- Set the first tile at your center intersection and twist it slightly as you press.
- Insert spacers at every corner - consistent joints are what make DIY tile look professional.
- Check with a level every few tiles; tap low spots down with a rubber mallet.
- Cut edge tiles last, measuring each one individually - walls are never perfectly straight.
Step 5: Grout, Clean, and Seal
Let the mortar cure 24 hours before grouting. Hold the grout float at 45 degrees and pack joints diagonally, then scrape excess off the tile face. Wait until the grout hazes over, then wipe with a damp sponge - multiple light passes beat one heavy soak. After a final cure, apply a penetrating grout sealer so spills sit on the surface instead of soaking in.
Rather have it done in two days, guaranteed level and leak-proof?
Get a free tile installation quoteDIY vs. Professional Tile Installation
A small powder-room floor is a great first tile project. Whole floors with lots of cuts, pattern work, or custom tile showers are where professional installation pays for itself - waterproofing mistakes behind a shower wall cost far more to undo than the install itself. Not sure which side your project falls on? Bring your measurements to our Bryan showroom and we'll give you an honest answer. And if tile isn't the right fit at all, compare it with luxury vinyl plank, which installs faster and stands up to the same spills.
